This is a post that the PGHM (The Chamonix Mountain Rescue) have been putting on a number of off-piste skiing sites to try and get the message across.
Thursday 13th of March, 2008. We’ve just done our 14th crevasse rescue and our second fatality this year after a fall of 30 meters. We don’t repeat this often enough but skiing on a glacier requires certain precautions and a knowledge of the terrain.
You are probably thinking “Just 14 crevasse rescues this year.” But that is just the tip of the ice-berg because a good number of people who are not injured are rescued by their mates, properly equipped witnesses and above all high mountain guides who work reguarly in the Mont Blanc range. With the exception of four incidents all of our rescues were on the Vallée Blanche.
Reality is somewhat different, our first 12 people rescued were all, without exception, extremely lucky. With falls from a dozen to 25 meters where daylight is visible as a little “ray of hope” when you raise your head (if you have the place...).
Lucky doesn’t mean without injury but rather alive because a large number are victims of diverse injuries (facial, skull, back etc.).
So, without any pretention and without being complete, let us give some common sense advice for anyone who wants to descend this wonderful route, during good weather conditions only!
Firstly, don’t go alone. The fact that you are at least two will double your chances of survival if there is an accident, even if it is just to raise the alarm. Who will know you’ve fallen in a crevasse if you are alone?
Being on a glacier implies that you have a minimum of gear. Screw gate karibiners, prussik loops, pulleys, ascender and the knowledge of how to use them. Yes, all the gear but no idea? You need to know how to rig a hoist. A number of books and courses can teach you the basics. Inform yourself.
Take at least an ice screw and wear a climbing harness. You can at least secure yourself to the wall of the crevasse. Normally when a snow bridge gives way it forms a secondary bridge lower down where the crevasse is narrower. There is the rub, you are now on another snow bridge which can give way at any moment, especially if you remove your skis or board.
Your harness should have a length of cord with a screw gate karabiner attached somewhere high on your person, the collar of your jacket for example. Like that we can easily pull you out in case of external rescue.
Never take both skis off (or your board) when on a glacier. Recently a snow boarder who lacked enough speed to get over a small uphill died after taking off his board to walk while he was unroped. We highlight this because you can walk on foot on glaciated terrain, you need the security of a rope with a couple of other people..
The serene voices of untracked powder call skiers to their doom. The person who died today was just 15 meters from the main track, sometimes just a few meters is sufficient.
Finally, if you are able, form a group and hire a guide who, thanks to his knowledge, will help you pass your day in safety.
The mountains are a fantastic playground but put as many chances on your side as possible to enjoy it for as long as possible.
Yesterday I had one of my best ski days of the year in St Gervais. Yes, St Gervais in April!!!! It was one of those days, sprinkling of snow overnight at home, crisp and sunny morning. Shall I, shan't I. There have been many occasions when you rush out to discover a dusting of snow over some hideous layer of refrozen rubble, but you have to go out to find out. So it was with no expectations I went out to St Gervais, which is not renowned for its April powder at the best of times, but the Chamonix valley was slow getting open, and its nice to go to the lesser know resorts at this time of year as they are so quiet. This proved to be the case. A leisurely start of 11:30 did not prove too late to enjoy some of the best powder of the year, with simply nobody around. There were enough tracks on the big off piste routes to inspire confidence in the conditions, but no more. It was descent after descent, putting in tracks next to ones previous ones each loop. Sublime.......
In the last week or so we have had a meter and a half of fresh snow down to 600m. The off-piste in the lower resorts such as Les Contamines and St Gervais has been fantastic. The Chamonix valley has been great too. There is more forecast so why not get some late season skiing in. When it all settles, there will be some fantastic touring, with the added bonus that with low snow, there are a lot more tours still available without long walk outs.
....with a vengance. Tee shirt weather last Sunday has been replaced by full-on winter again with fresh new snow and minus double figure temperatures. More snow is forecast freshening everything up for a good late season.
We are right in the middle of peak season at the moment and all the resorts are extremely busy with crowded pistes and lift queues. This is definitely a good time to go ski touring. Last week I did 2 tours. Firstly the Aiguillette des Houches, a nice peak at the entrance of the Chamonix valley. You can drive up to a roadhead and put you skins on pretty much straight from the car. No queues to grapple with and generally no people. In 2 hours of ascent we saw 4 people all on snowshoes, and on the descent down the north facing couloir, no one. The couloir was a real bonus, despite no new snow for nearly 3 weeks, there was still fresh tracks to be had. Probably only 20 or so people had been down it in all that time.
Later in the week I went to Les Contamines to do the Col du Cicle. This is again a shady spot that holds good snow conditions, this time hardpack grippy snow. The difference between the touring and the resort itself was startling. You use the lift system to get to the start point of the tour, and even after the peak morning rush their was queues. But as soon as you drop of out of the ski area, no one. A true delight.
If you can put up with the busy resorts, half term peak season is a good time for touring. Snow conditions are generally good, and as it is a family orientated time of year, there are few people out touring.
Last weekend I was in Cogne checking out ice climbing routes. Despite the warm weather, there was still some good routes in condition. Cascade de Lillaz was partly in good condition. Some of the middle pitches were not complete, but the top and bottom were good. Then we checked out a route on the way into Cogne - the ultimate in roadside climbing as the road goes under a paravalanche between the first and second pitches. This was still in excellent condition. Photos soon...